Carment and method of sewing sleeve linings into armholes thereof



March 2 1926.

' R. A. FEISS GARMENT AND METHOD oF SEWING SLEEVE LININGS INT0 ARMHoLEs THEREOF Filed Feb. l, 1924 4 Sheets-Shea?l l March 2 1926. y 1,575,562

R. A. FEISS GARMENT AND METHOD OF SEWING SLEEVE LININGS INTO ARMHOLES THEREOF Fild Feb. 1, 1924 4 sheetsnsheet 2 15/ l F/aX/l.

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March 2,1926. l 1,575,562

R. A. FEISS GARMENT AND METHOD oF SEWING SLEEVE LININGS INT0 ARMHOLES THEREOF Filed Feb. 1, 1924 4 Sheets-Sheet 5 Ffa. x/x.

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March 2 1926. 1,575,562

R. A. FEISS `GARMENT AND METHOD OF SEWING SLEEVE LNINGS INTO ARMHOLES THEREOF' Filed Feb. l 1924 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 7 j F16. xxx

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Patented Mar. 2, 1925i.f

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RICHARD e reise Overveen-Te een, essere@ Te eee JQSEPH & reisewe- Application fuga February `1, .1924. feeder Hersenen.

T0 all whom t may concern.'

Beit known that l, :RICHARD A. Entes, a citizen of the United v`States, resi-ding et 9907 Lelie -Avenue, Cleveland, .Cuyahoga County, in the State of Ohio, have` invented a nev vand use fullmprovement in Garments and Methods Vof Sewing Sleeve Linings into Armholes Thereof, otw-hich the vli'ollowing is a specification, the principle of theinvenltionibeing herein lexplained and the best mode in which I have contemplated .apply- .ing that principle, -so Las to distinguish it vtrom other inventions.`

My invention pertains to a garment und also the method of serving asleeve into the nrmhole` thereof. More -limrticularly, the novel method for producing a new garment construction relates to the-manner or". inechine stitching the lsleeve liningnot only near the Wrist end of the sleeveybut also entirely aronnd'the armjhole etthershonldei ofthe garment. Heretofore, so Vier as Iain invero, sleeve linings haveelweys been zitleast partly seemed by hand and such hendrstitehing has usually been preferably done around the vupper end 'of the `sleeve because the seem at the lower end of the sleeve lining is more.

likely to become exposed `and therefore .the manufacturers have considered it more 1mportent 4tohave the lower end ofthe sleeve lininv' more neatl 1 and .more.securelvhseivn by machine. Prior to my invention. it was believed that only one end of the-sleeve ,linw ing couldbe machine stitched. beetinsewhen one end or" the sleeve 4lining hitdybeen sewn closed there was no. known access, es. by turning the sleeve inside out .and laying beek its lining, to the opposed inner or concealed sides lofthe sleeve materiel endsleevc lining. `My inventionxmnlres it possible to nie.-

chine stitch completely aroundfbot-h ends oi' the sleeve lining and involves thenproviszon 0i' n slash or vunstitched intermediatetportion of conforming edges oi2 the upper' ind lower lsleeve lining pieces,- whereby access of the sewing machine needlezto the interior through suchV slash` is to Afinally senmingthe slash.

A manually stiteliedsleeve lining besides being less neat did not ,afford adequate ive-nring qualities. As has been eerliernnentioned,

it wasoustomarily ther-shoulder .end of the permitted preperitcry sleevelining which was hand, S/#Glied end ns l.every person-,knows )from experience, n :looseningmot "the, uppergend .of the sleeve lining very frequently occurred owing `r`lto theirictiononthe threads of the senin when .the garment kWes put Aon Jor removed and during any. normal bodil y unoven'ients. vPei"- fle' elle@ on lie-nd sewn seams Whereas the n'igiefiine. .stitches .differ considerably morey .resistente spil-ation. also; has .very deling in consequence .of Vtheir being Icloser, regulerend tighter. i

vlimone .the jadvan may .loe mentioned (l) The lect .that the Iproduct ,very

lno re tiges of .my invention method of bend seiving'.

(2) The production is very much' 'o H (o) ".lhe cost 1s reduced yrecense o Vsaving in time.

. n'iuehjneziter than that obteinedtby.the older rio (1l) The Wearing qualityor durability of Figure I is e plan view of zin/under sleeve.

lining piece .es .received from the '.cutter'.

Figure lI is .plan view ofthe ,top ,sleeve Alining piece.

Figure lll is a view showing the Vunder sleeve lining leid .tipon-thle top sleevelining, .the under sleeve lining l being slioivn stretched flat end the .tivo ,lining pieees ing seemed. ,along Ione!.entire edge, lbut `stitched ralong .the l.opposite in\se,e'1n"edges onlyv n.certein ,distance (.gtbontkrthree inehee et the top) commencing ind ending Vwith a teelt .and e eertein distance upwirdlyirom thefbottom (aboutsix inehes) likewiseeomlnencing yand .ending with e tech, thereby leaving en ,intermediate extent ,of the 'inseein edges .not secured together, to .provide anslash.' Thesleeve lining -sl'ioWn in Figure Figures IV and V ,are sectiQnS on lines Vll) piece.

Figure VI 1s a plan view of the coat material sleeve showing the top sleeve piece superimposed on the under sleeve piece which is shown stretched liat and the two pieces being machine stitched or seamed together along opposite longitudinal edges.

Figure VII is a view showing thet sleeve lining, after being turned inside out from its position shown in Figure III, partly slipped over the coat sleeve and with the two lower orwrist ends thereof machine stitched together.

Figure VIII is a view of the complete sleeve construction after being turned right side out, with its seams pressed flat and ready for attachment to the body of the garment.

Figures IX and X are sections on line IX-IX and line XX respectively of Figure VIII. l

Figure XI is an inside plan view of onehalf of the body of a coat ready for the i attaching thereto of a. sleeve.

Figure XII is a section on line XII-XII of Figure XI before a sleeve is attacher thereto.

Figure XIII is a vertical section on line XIII- XIII of Figure XI before a sleeve is attached thereto.

Figure XIV is a plan section similar to Figure XII `'after the coat material of a sleeve has been attached to the coat material of the garment.

Figure XV is a vertical section similar to Figure XIII, but showing the coat material of the sleeve seamed to the coat material of the garment.

Figure XVI is a partial inside view of 'one-half of the garment after the additional operation of sean'iing the liningof the coat to its armhol-e.

Figure XVII is a horizontal Asection on line XV II-XVII of Figure XVI.'

Figure XVIII is a complete vertical section on line XVIII- XVIII of 'Figure XVI.

Figure XIX is a partial inside view of one-half of the coat after the next subsequent step, the sleeve lining having been pulled up out of the coat sleeve and after the sleeve lining has been seamed to the armhole around the upper half of the curved edge of the latter.

Figure XX is a horizontal sectional view on line XX-XX of Figure XIX after the performance of the operation there shown and with the sleeve lining` returned to its normal position inthe coat sleeve.

Figure XXI is a complete vertical section on line XXI-XXI of Figure XIX though with the sleeve lining returned to its position in the sleeve.

XXII with the lining of the sleeve likewise replaced within the coat sleeve.

Figure XXV is a slightly enlarged sec tional view through the sleeve shown iu Figurel XXIII before the slash is seamed closed. o I

Figure XXVI is an insideview of onehalf .of the coat showing the entire sleeve construction pulled inside out preparatoiwy to performing the final operation of sewing up the lash in the sleeve lining.

Figure XXVII is a slight-l57 enlarged section on line XXVI--XXVII of Figure XXVI. Y

Figure XXVIII is a view corresponding to Figure XXVII after the slash has been sewed shut. l

Figure XXIX is aslightly enlarged section through the linished slee-ve after it has been restored to its proper position corresponding with that Vshown in Figure XXV.

An under sleeve lining piece l is superimposed on a larger top sleeve lining piece 2, only the former being stretched flat shown in Figure III, and then the seam 3 is stitched along the longer conforming edges of the two pieces. The two in-seain edges are at `the outset only partiallr7 seamed together, one inseam et con'im'encing with a tack at the top and extending down for say, three inches, to end with a tach and the other in-seam 5 commencing with a tacit at the bottom and running up to terinniae with a tack about sii; inches from the lower end of the seam'llwhereby an opening or slash (3 is left. It shoul( be understood that the il sleeve lining as shown iu Figure Ill is turned inside out. Figures IV and V show that the top sleeve lining piece is of somewhat greater width. Figure V I shows two pieces 7 and 8 of a coat sleeve stitched together along seam lines 9 and l() while the two pieces of coat sleeve material are turned inside out., after which the sleeve lining which has been turned right side out Yis slipped over to enclose t-he coat sleeve as shown in Figure VII. 'Ihe lower ends of the coat sleeve and sleeve liningare then seamed together at l1 around the lower opening of the sleeve structure. 'I he entire sleeve structure is then turned right side isov Vil

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out and its vseams are pressed flat as shown 4'in 4'lligure VIII when the sleeve is ready for attach-ment `to the coat. All oit' the seam stitching so lar mentioned has been machine made,

vIn Figure XI there shown one-halt l2 ot 4the body et' a coat provided with an armhole 13, a collar ll, a mid back e'lge l5, and lining 16, 'the looped arnrhole Vedge of the coat material has been designated with the numeral 17, the arm-hole edge of the coat lining has been designated with the numeral 1 8 and the shoulder padding with the numeral 19. The lower edges of the coat l2 and lining 1G are seamed at 2O in the usual way as shown in Figure XIII. Next, the sleeve structure is sewed into the arm-hole of the coat, tirst, as shown in Figure XV, by sewing only the sleeve material to the coat material all the way around with a seam 2l about three-eighths of an inch from the edges ot' the materials as is indicated in both F iguresXIV and XV. The seam stitching 2l will be furthest removed trom the armhole edges with respectto Aother stitching around the latter to be now described.

The lining 16 of the coat is now machine seamed to the arm-hole by stitching designated with the numeral 22 and running around about three-sixteenths ot an inch from the arm-hole edges so as to leave about three-sixteenths of an inch between the seams 2l and 22. The seam 22 along a part of its extent catches the material of the coat, the material of the sleeve, the shoulder pad, canvas front and the lining 16 of the coat. rIhe seam 2l starts about tour inches below the front of the shoulder seam (being the line shown running from about the middle of the collar 14 down to the arm-hole) and continues on down around the front ot the arm-hole and up the back or rear edge ot the arm-hole to about two and one-halt' inches below the shoulder seam. From this point the seam 22 continues around the arm-hole to the starting point, without however catoliing the outside ot' the coat material nor the sleeve material ot the coat. rllhis has been common practice and is done to allow the padding and liningI to remain loose with respect to the coat material over the shoulder whereby to avoid puckering or wrinkling.

rlhe seam 22 is clearly shown in l*`iguresV XVI to XVIII inclusive.

As appears in Figure IX. the sleeve linis partially pulled out of the coat sleeve preparatory to machine seaming its upper looped edge entirely around the arm-hole according' to new and improved method. The top part of the sleeve lining 2 is iirst machine seamed along a line indicated by the numeral 23, and the seam line 23 will be observed upon inspection of Figure XIX to run in between the seams 2l and 22. Therealter the sleeve lining is pushed back into 'the next proceeding operation vthe sleeve lining is pulled up outside of the sleeve far' enoughto vpermit .grasping yand openingy ot -ltheslas'h `6, through which slash the edge of the rannil'io'le may be pulled and aliter proper adjustment ot the parte, a machine needle may be introduced to complete the seaming ot' the sleeve lining, that is to say, to machine seam the under sleeve lining to the arm-hole. The under sleeve lining seam is designated bythe numeral 2l and as appears .in Figure XXII is likewise located between the two seams 2l and 22. The seam 24- is also clearly shown in Figures XXIII and XXIV which two figures show the position which the parts may assume upon restoration ot the sleeve lining to its proper position within the sleeve.

' It now only remains to sew shut the slash C and in order to do this, the entire sleeve structure isv turned inside .out as shown in Figure XXVI to expose the lining and its slash. Thereafter the slash in the sleeve lining is sewed up as with seam 25 either by hand or by machine and the iinished sleeve construction turned right side out.

I claim l. The method of sewing one end of the lining ot' a limbacovering portion of a garment to the body of the latter, which consists in providing an intermediate section of said lining with a slash, pulling the lining far enough out through one open end of .said garment portion to permit ot opening of and access through said slash, seamstitching said end of said lining to said gar* ment through said slash, and thereafter stitching together the `edges of said slash.

2. The method ot stitching sleeve lining` within a garment, which consists in providing the sleeve lining with a slash, sea-ming one end ot said sleeve lining to the garment sleeve, and then seaming the other end ot .said sleeve lining to said garment by the access afforded through said slash.`

3. The method ot seaming sleeve lining within a garment, which consists in providing the sleeve lining with a slash, seaming .one end o't said sleeve lining to a garment sleeve while the latter is turned inside out, turning the sleeve structure right side out, introducing a needle through said slash and then causing said needle to seam the other end of the sleeve lining around the arm-hole of the garment.

4t. The method of seaming sleeve lining within a garment, which consists in providing the sleeve lining with a slash, seeming one looped edge of said sleeve lining to the garment sleeve, seeming the other looped edge of said sleeve lining around a portion of its extent to said garment, and then seaming the remainder of such other end of said sleeve lining to'said garment by introduction of the needle through said slash.

The method of stitching sleeve lining within a garment, which Consists in providing the sleeve lining with an opening by leaving juxtaposed portions of two longitudinal edges of 'the lining unseamed, turning the sleeve structure inside out and stitching one looped end of .said sleeve lining to the garment sleeve, stitching the other looped end of the sleeve lining to the garment by the access afforded through said opening, sewing shut ldie opening and then restoring the right-side-out position of said :sleeve structure.

Signed by me, this 16 day of January, 20

RICHARD A. FEISS. 

